It is good to be back.
My first experience at Pineapple and Pearls was a phenomenal one. The meal was a spotless show of perfectly crafted and whimsical dishes. The service was warm and friendly, carrying out Chef Silverman’s philosophy. Never had a restaurant resonated with me so much on a personal level.
My second visit to Pineapple and Pearls was to clarify my opinion.
After my first visit, the restaurant raised its tasting menu price from $250 to $280, inclusive of services and tax.
The first dish out of the kitchen was Chef’s take on the classic afternoon tea spread. A beautiful arrangement of tiny bites was paired exquisitely with a rhubarb tea and a rhubarb granita. The delicate sorrel tuile was as beautiful as it was delicious, being perfectly crispy and creamy with a hint of salty richness provided by the trout roe. The roulade was delicious. A delicious combination of tart pickled kohlrabi and creamy walnut. One of the single best bites of the evening was the foie gras canale. Crispy on the outside and meltingly warm on the inside, the dish is an explosion of foie gras flavor, all accentuated with the shaved foie gras on top.
The same old delicious beef tartare bite. The only thing I think that would improve this dish would be to have more of it.
One of the most amazing octopus dishes I have ever had. Covered in a slightly tangy salsa verde, the octopus is grilled and then brought to the table. The smoky and tender octopus was phenomenal with a slightly crispy burnt crust. Amazing.
Probably one of my favorite course of the night. Prepared tableside, the host came to the table with a pot of ham and pea consomme. Much to my surprise, the tube of decoration was used as the herb infusion for the soup. The combination of sweet raw peas and pea puree blends perfectly with the powerful consomme to create a wonderful dish. The herbs and diced hams added another dimension of salt and aroma.
A beautifully made omelet of ramps and morels. The dish is a perfect combination of earthy mushrooms, herbaceous sorrel juice, and an amazing final touch of crispy cheese.
The same old amazing sea bass that I had from last time. However, this time the dish was slightly too salty for my taste.
I can’t find a way to describe this delicious taco. Crispy fried, delicate sweetbreads were paired with a spicy almond mole, all cut with perfect pickles and fried basil to create the perfect little bite.
My previous experience with the lamb version of this dish was not pleasant. Therefore, for my second visit, I opted for the fish substitution instead. A perfectly moist baked fillet of turbot was paired with a subtle jus and yogurt. I thoroughly enjoyed this dish in comparison to the previous version, which I find the lamb to be a tad dry. I can’t wait until the restaurant’s new main course is revealed.
The palate cleanser of the evening was a new take on the old Tangerine and Soda dish from my last visit. Delicious pineapple granita was paired with a creamy quenelle of ice cream and a bitter spiked soda to make a refreshing ending to the savory part of the meal.
The main dessert of the night was a beautifully presented cheesecake with fresh strawberries, strawberry coulis, and celery. I loved the way the creaminess of the cheesecake was balanced by the tartness of the strawberries and the anise flavors of the celery. The pepper was a nice twist to the dish, adding a layer of heat to lift the sweetness of the subtle dish.
A complimentary dessert by the restaurant. Described as a deconstructed cannoli, the dish is composed of chips with ricotta, pistachio, chocolate chips, and candied apricot. A delicious bite.
The meal finished with Pineapple and Pearl’s signature mignardises of sour patch apricot, caramel gooseberry, and chocolate and coconut covered frozen banana.
Overall, the second visit has cemented my view that Pineapple and Pearls is the most interesting restaurant in America right now. Never has a restaurant this early in its formation be this good. The perfect execution of creative dishes was mind-blowingly delicious. Chef Silverman’s philosophy is demonstrated not only in his insistence on the pursuit of the perfect customer experience but also in the creative drive behind every single dish on the menu.
I have to say it. Pineapple and Pearls is the perfect restaurant.